The word perfume used today derives from the Latin "per fumus',meaning "through smoke".Perfumery ,or the art of making perfumes,began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further refined by the Romans and Persians.
The world's first recorded chemist is considered to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker who was mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia.She distilled flowers,oil,and 'calamus' with other aromatics then filtered and put them back in the still several times.
In 2005 ,archaelogists uncovered what are belived to be the world's oldest perfumes in Pyrgos,Cyprus.The perfumes date back more than 4000 years.The perfumes were discovered in an ancient perfumery.At least 60 stills,mixing bowls,funnels and perfume bottels were found in the 4000 square -metres factory.In ancient times people used herbs and spices ,like almond,coriander,myrtle,conifer resin,bergamot as well as flowers.
The Arabian chemist ,Al-Kindi(Alkindus),wrote in the 9th century a book on perfumes which he named 'Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations'.It contained more than a hundred recipes for fragant oils,salves,aromatic waters and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs.The Persian chemist Ibn Sina(aka Avicenna) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation,the procedure most commonly used today.He first exeperimented with the rose.Until his discovery,liquid perfumes were mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals,which made a strong blend.Rose water was more delicate,and immediatly became popular.The art of perfumery was known in Europe ever since 1221.In the east,the Hungarians produced in 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary,best known as Hungary Water.The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy ,and in the 16th century ,Italian refinements were taken to France by Catherine de'Medici's personal perfumer ,Rene the Florentine.Thanks to him,France quikly became one of the European centres of perfume and cosmetics manufacture.Between the 16th and the 17th century,perfumes were use primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing.In Germany ,Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua Admirabilis,today best known as eau de cologne.
Concentarition
Perfume types reflect the concetration of aromatic compounds in a solvent,which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or a mix oh water and ethanol.The concentration by percent\volume of perfume oil is as follows:
Perfume extract,or simply perfume(Extrait):15-40% (IFRA:typical 20%)aromatic compounds
Esprit de Parfum(ESdP)L15-30% aromatic compounds,a seldom used strenght concentration in between EdP and perfume
Eau de Parfum(EdP),Parfum de Toilette(PdT):10-20%(typical -15%) aromatic compounds,sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millesime"
Eau de Toilette(EdT):5-15%(typical 10%) aromatic compounds
Eau de Cologne(EdC):Chypre citrus type perfumewith 3-8%(typical-5%)aromatic compounds.
Famous early perfums
Chanel no.5 was created in 1921.Coco Chalel belived woman should wear perfume wherever they hoped to be kissed.Today Chanel no.5 sells a bottle every 30 seconds.
Another early perfume is Guerlain's Shalimar launched first in 1925 and relaunched in 2001.It's a refine oriental feminine fragrance with iris,vanilla and rose.
In 1932 Dana made the exotic Tabu,Worth made the memorable Je Reviens which remaind popular in the 50's and the 60's.In 1934,Elizabeth Arden developed Blue Grass.All are still sold today.Jean Patou launched Joy in 1935 and it was voted Scent of the 20th Century at the Fragrance Foundation FiFi awards 2000.In 1944 was introduced Femme by Rochas.In 1947 Dior launched the ever popular Miss Dior.
My favorite perfumes are Kelly Caleche by Hermes,Dior's J'adore, Ange au Demon by Givenchy and the newest perfume by Paco Rabanne ,Lady Million(and my fiance loves Million Dollar-by the same Paco Rabanne).
Hope you like the post and you will share with me which are your favorites perfumes!!!!xoxo
